In this lesson, you will explore the basic supplies behind every garment: fabrics and notions. You will learn how different fibers and fabric weaves affect comfort, durability, and drape, and how notions such as thread, zippers, buttons, and elastic help garments open, close, and fit. Real dressmakers study fabric grain, care labels, and seam allowance before they even start cutting. Today you will classify fabrics, match notions to simple projects, and begin thinking like a careful planner in the sewing room.
🎯 Learning Goals
By the end of the lesson, you will be able to:
- Classify common fabrics according to fiber type, weave or knit, and suggested garment use.
- Identify basic notions such as thread, zippers, buttons, and elastic and match them to simple garment parts.
- Explain the importance of fabric grain, seam allowance, and care labels when planning a basic garment project.
🧩 Key Ideas & Terms
- Fiber – The basic hair-like unit that fabrics are made from (for example, cotton, polyester, wool).
- Fabric – A sheet of material made by weaving or knitting fibers together, used for garments.
- Woven fabric – Fabric made by interlacing lengthwise and crosswise yarns at right angles (warp and weft).
- Knit fabric – Fabric made by forming loops of yarn that are interlocked, often stretchier than wovens.
- Grainline – The direction of the threads in woven fabric, especially the lengthwise grain used for cutting.
- Selvage – The firmly woven finished edge of fabric that does not fray easily.
- Notions – Small sewing items used in garment construction, such as thread, buttons, zippers, snaps, and elastic.
- Seam allowance – The extra fabric between the seam line and the raw edge, used for stitching and adjustment.
- Interfacing – A supportive layer added inside collars, waistbands, and other parts to provide body and strength.
- Care label – A label on garments or fabric that shows recommended washing, drying, and ironing instructions.
🔄 Quick Recall / Prior Knowledge
Connect your everyday experience of wearing clothes with the materials used to make them.
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Look at the tag inside one of your garments at home. What information did you see written there?
Show Answer
Common information: fiber content (for example, 100% cotton), size, brand name, country of manufacture, and care instructions such as wash temperature or ironing symbol. -
Recall a garment that feels cool in hot weather. What do you think its fabric might be?
Show Answer
Possible answers: light cotton, linen, rayon, or other breathable fabrics that absorb sweat and allow air circulation. -
Think of a garment that stretches when you pull it. What kind of fabric construction might it use?
Show Answer
Most likely knit fabric (such as T-shirt knit or jersey) or woven fabric with elastic fibers like spandex. -
Have you ever seen thread, buttons, or zippers sold in a store? Where are these items usually displayed?
Show Answer
They are often displayed on racks or shelves in the notions or sewing supplies section of fabric stores or department stores.
📖 Explore the Lesson
Checkpoint 1 – From Fiber to Fabric
Mini-goal: Understand how fibers and yarns become fabrics for garments.
Before a garment appears in a store, it begins as tiny fibers. Natural fibers come from plants and animals, such as cotton, linen, and wool. Manufactured fibers, like polyester and nylon, are made through chemical processes. Fibers are twisted into yarns, and yarns are then turned into fabric by weaving or knitting. The type of fiber influences the fabric’s feel, warmth, and durability. Cotton is usually soft and breathable, while polyester tends to be strong and wrinkle-resistant.
When fibers are woven on a loom, lengthwise yarns (warp) and crosswise yarns (weft) interlace to form woven fabric. Woven fabrics, such as broadcloth or denim, usually do not stretch much unless special yarns are used. When yarns are looped in rows using needles, they create knit fabric. Knit fabrics, like T-shirt jersey, are often more stretchy and comfortable for moving. Some garments use blends, combining fibers, to get the best qualities of both.
Each fabric has strengths and weaknesses. Cotton can shrink if washed in hot water. Polyester can trap heat in very warm climates. Wool is warm but may feel itchy. Knowing these properties helps you choose fabrics that match the purpose of the garment. A school uniform needs durability and easy care; a party dress may prioritize drape and sheen; sportswear needs stretch and quick drying.
Real-life tie-in: You might already notice differences when folding laundry: some fabrics are smooth, others rough; some wrinkle easily, others stay neat. This is not magic; it is the result of fiber type and how the fabric was constructed.
Mini-summary: Fibers become yarns, and yarns become woven or knit fabrics. Fiber type and fabric construction work together to create the feel and performance of garments.
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Give one example of a natural fiber and one example of a manufactured fiber.
Show Answer
Natural: cotton, linen, wool, silk. Manufactured: polyester, nylon, rayon, acrylic. -
Which fabric type usually stretches more, woven or knit, and why is that useful for some garments?
Show Answer
Knit fabrics usually stretch more, which is useful for T-shirts, leggings, and sportswear that require easy movement. -
Why is it important for a dressmaker to know the properties of different fibers?
Show Answer
So they can select fabrics that are comfortable, durable, easy to care for, and suitable for the garment’s purpose.
Checkpoint 2 – Reading the Fabric: Grain, Selvage, and Bias
Mini-goal: Learn how fabric direction affects cutting and garment hang.
Once you spread fabric on a table, you will notice two long finished edges that do not fray easily: these are the selvages. Along these edges run the lengthwise grain, which follows the warp yarns. The crosswise direction, from one selvage to the opposite, follows the weft yarns and is called the crosswise grain. The diagonal line halfway between lengthwise and crosswise is known as the bias.
Patterns usually have a grainline arrow printed on them. When cutting, you align this arrow parallel to the selvage so the garment hangs correctly and does not twist. Lengthwise grain tends to be stronger and stretches less, so most garments are cut with the body pieces along this direction. Crosswise grain has a little more give, which can help with comfort around the body. Bias-cut pieces, placed diagonally, drape and stretch more, often used for special designs.
If you ignore grain, garments can twist, shrink oddly, or hang in an unattractive way. Skirts may swing strangely, and side seams may move forward or backward on the body. Learning to read the fabric’s direction is as important as knowing how to sew a straight line. Even simple projects, like an apron or pillowcase, look more professional when grain is respected.
Real-life tie-in: Have you ever worn pants where one leg seemed to twist as you walked? This is often due to poor grain alignment during cutting. Proper grain control helps avoid these annoying problems.
Mini-summary: Fabric has lengthwise, crosswise, and bias directions. Aligning pattern grainlines with the correct fabric grain helps garments hang, stretch, and wear as intended.
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What is the selvage, and how can it help you find the grainline?
Show Answer
The selvage is the finished edge of fabric; the lengthwise grain runs parallel to it, helping you align pattern grainlines correctly. -
Why might a designer purposely cut a skirt on the bias?
Show Answer
To achieve more drape, gentle stretch, and a flowing look that follows the body’s curves. -
What problem can occur if you cut a garment piece without following the grainline arrow on the pattern?
Show Answer
The garment may twist, hang unevenly, or lose its intended shape and fit.
Checkpoint 3 – Getting to Know Common Fabrics
Mini-goal: Classify everyday fabrics by feel and typical uses.
In many homes, you can already find a small fabric “library”: school uniforms, house clothes, bed sheets, and curtains. Each uses different fabric to match its job. Cotton broadcloth is common for uniforms because it is breathable and fairly easy to press. Denim is used for jeans because it is thick and durable. Jersey knit is used for T-shirts because it stretches and feels soft on the skin. Chiffon and other lightweight fabrics are often used for formal wear because they drape and move beautifully.
You can classify fabrics using simple observations: Is it smooth or rough? Thin or thick? Stretchy or stiff? Shiny or dull? Light or heavy? Many fabric shops also label bolts with fiber content and best uses, such as “ideal for blouses” or “for uniforms.” Reading these labels is an important skill. When you match fabric properties with the kind of garment you plan, you reduce problems like overheating, tearing, or see-through clothing.
Sometimes, cheaper fabrics look attractive at first but quickly fade, pill, or feel uncomfortable. Quality does not always mean the most expensive option; it means a fabric that performs well for its purpose and lasts a reasonable time. Learning to balance price, properties, and project type is part of becoming a wise garment maker.
Real-life tie-in: Think about a piece of clothing that lasted many years compared to one that quickly became worn out. The difference may be in fabric quality, how it was used, and how it was cared for.
Mini-summary: Common fabrics such as broadcloth, denim, jersey, and chiffon have different textures and strengths. Choosing the right one depends on how the garment will be used.
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Which fabric would you choose for a school uniform blouse and why?
Show Answer
Likely a cotton or cotton-blend broadcloth because it is breathable, not too thick, and can look neat when pressed. -
Why might denim not be the best choice for a light summer dress?
Show Answer
Because denim is heavy and less breathable, which can feel hot and stiff in warm weather. -
Give one advantage of jersey knit for casual tops.
Show Answer
It stretches for comfort, feels soft on the skin, and allows easy movement.
Checkpoint 4 – Notions: The Small Items that Make Garments Work
Mini-goal: Identify basic notions and their roles in garment construction.
Garments would fall off, gape, or unravel without notions. The most basic notion is thread, which holds pieces of fabric together. Thread can be cotton, polyester, or a blend, and its thickness and color should match the fabric and seam purpose. Buttons provide closures on shirts, pants, and dresses; they must be attached firmly and spaced correctly. Zippers allow close-fitting garments such as skirts, dresses, or pants to open and close smoothly.
Elastic is used in waistbands, cuffs, and other areas that must stretch and then return to shape. Different widths and strengths of elastic suit different projects. Snaps and hooks-and-eyes give quick, flat closures for necklines, plackets, or waistbands. Bias tape binds raw edges, especially around curves like armholes and necklines. Interfacing is an unseen hero inside collars, cuffs, and waistbands, providing structure so these parts do not flop or wrinkle easily.
Choosing the right notion is just as important as choosing the fabric. A weak zipper on a tight skirt can break easily. Buttons that do not match the fabric’s thickness may pop off or look awkward. Elastic that is too tight causes discomfort; too loose, and the garment slips down. Notions should suit the fabric weight, garment style, and wearer’s needs.
Real-life tie-in: Have you ever stopped wearing a garment because a zipper broke or a button went missing? Sometimes a small notion failure can “retire” a whole piece of clothing, showing how essential these items are.
Mini-summary: Notions such as thread, buttons, zippers, elastic, snaps, and interfacing are small but vital materials that help garments fit, close, and keep their shape.
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Why should thread color be chosen carefully when sewing a garment?
Show Answer
Because visible stitching should blend with the fabric or give a neat decorative effect; wrong color can look messy or highlight mistakes. -
Name two garment areas where you might use elastic.
Show Answer
Waistbands of skirts or shorts, sleeve cuffs, neckline casings, or gathered waist dresses. -
What is the purpose of interfacing inside a collar or waistband?
Show Answer
To add structure and firmness so the part keeps its shape and does not wrinkle or collapse easily.
Checkpoint 5 – Seam Allowance, Finishing, and Care Labels
Mini-goal: Connect seam allowance and care instructions to garment durability.
When you cut fabric exactly at body measurement, there is no space for stitching or adjustment. That is why patterns always include a seam allowance, usually between 1 and 1.5 centimeters (or more, depending on region and pattern). This extra fabric at the edge allows you to sew seams and, if needed, to loosen or tighten the garment later. Seam allowances also give space for finishing raw edges, preventing fraying and making the inside of the garment look neat.
There are many ways to finish edges: zigzag stitches, overlock stitches, turning under and stitching, or binding with bias tape. The method chosen depends on fabric type, available machines, and the quality level desired. A well-finished seam is more comfortable against the skin and less likely to unravel in the wash.
Care labels provide important instructions. Symbols may show whether to wash by hand or machine, maximum water temperature, whether bleach is allowed, and if tumble drying or ironing is safe. Ignoring these signs can cause shrinking, color loss, or damage. Dressmakers should consider these instructions when recommending fabrics, especially for clients who prefer low-maintenance garments.
Real-life tie-in: Many people have a story about a favorite shirt that shrank or changed shape after washing. Often, this happens when the care label is not followed or the fabric was not suitable for the garment’s use.
Mini-summary: Seam allowances and seam finishes help garments stay strong and adjustable, while care labels guide owners to wash and dry garments safely to extend their life.
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Why is seam allowance important when sewing garments?
Show Answer
It provides space for stitching and adjustments, helping garments fit properly and remain strong at the seams. -
Give one example of a seam finishing method.
Show Answer
Examples: zigzag stitch along raw edges, overlocking, turning under and stitching, or binding with bias tape. -
How can ignoring care labels affect a garment?
Show Answer
The garment may shrink, fade, distort, or become damaged faster than expected.
💡 Example in Action
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Example 1 – Choosing Fabric for a School Skirt
Your school wants a new skirt design for Grade 8 learners. The skirt should be comfortable in warm weather and durable for daily use. Which fabric would you suggest and why?Show Answer
Suggested fabric: cotton or cotton-polyester blend twill or broadcloth. It is breathable, can handle frequent washing, and holds its shape better than very thin fabrics. -
Example 2 – Matching Notions to Garment Parts
You are planning a simple blouse with a front opening and a collar. Which notions will you prepare?Show Answer
Notions: matching thread, buttons or a front zipper, interfacing for the collar and possibly the button placket, and maybe bias tape for finishing neck edges if needed. -
Example 3 – Understanding Grainline
You place a skirt pattern piece on fabric at a slant, not parallel to the selvage, because you want to save cloth. What possible problem might happen to the finished skirt?Show Answer
The skirt may twist or hang unevenly, with side seams moving forward or backward when worn, because the grainline was not followed. -
Example 4 – Reading a Care Label
The care label on a blouse says: “Machine wash cold, do not bleach, line dry, cool iron.” How should the owner take care of this blouse?Show Answer
Wash in cool water in the washing machine, avoid chlorine bleach, hang it to dry instead of using a hot dryer, and use a low-temperature iron if needed. -
Example 5 – Repairing a Favorite Garment
A friend has a favorite skirt whose elastic waistband has become loose. What simple repair using notions could you suggest?Show Answer
Open a small part of the waistband seam, remove the old elastic, cut a new piece of suitable elastic, thread it through the casing, join the ends securely, and close the opening with stitching.
📝 Try It Out
Work through these tasks in your notebook or during hands-on time. Use the answer keys to reflect and improve.
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List at least five different fabrics found at home (from garments, linens, or curtains) and describe each using two words (for example, “thick and rough” or “thin and smooth”).
Show Answer
Answers vary. Teacher should check that learners describe real fabric qualities accurately, such as “denim – thick, rough; T-shirt knit – soft, stretchy; bedsheet cotton – smooth, light.” -
Draw a rectangle representing a piece of woven fabric. Mark and label the selvages, lengthwise grain, crosswise grain, and bias.
Show Answer
Look for selvages on the long sides, lengthwise grain parallel to selvage, crosswise grain across from selvage to selvage, and bias drawn diagonally at 45°. -
Copy three garment care symbols from a real label or from a reference and explain in your own words what each symbol means.
Show Answer
Sample: Tub with one dot – wash in cool water; triangle with X – do not bleach; iron with two dots – medium iron; square with circle – tumble dry. -
Make a two-column list labeled “Fabrics” and “Suggested Garments.” Match at least six pairs, such as “denim – jeans” or “chiffon – formal dress.”
Show Answer
Examples: denim – jeans, jackets; jersey – T-shirts; broadcloth – school blouses; fleece – jackets; chiffon – party dresses; linen – summer shirts. -
Sketch a simple blouse or T-shirt and place small arrows showing where you would put buttons, zippers, and/or snaps.
Show Answer
Teacher should see closures placed logically along front placket, shoulder, or back opening, depending on design. -
Write a short paragraph explaining why seam allowance is important when making alterations to a garment.
Show Answer
Sample idea: Seam allowance provides extra fabric that can be let out or taken in when a person grows or when the fit needs improvement. -
Create a “notions checklist” for a simple A-line skirt with an elastic waistband. Include all items needed besides the fabric.
Show Answer
Checklist may include: matching thread, elastic (correct width and length), safety pin or bodkin for inserting elastic, pins, measuring tape, scissors, and possibly label tag. -
Interview a family member about a garment that lasted a long time. Ask what fabric it was made from and how they cared for it.
Show Answer
Teacher should check for mention of factors such as strong fabric, proper washing, drying away from harsh sun, and mending small damages. -
Write two questions you would ask in a fabric store before buying cloth for a school project skirt.
Show Answer
Examples: “Is this fabric easy to wash and press?” “Does it shrink?” “Is it suitable for school uniforms?” “How many meters do I need for my size?” -
Finish this statement: “When I plan a garment in the future, I will always check the fabric’s ______ and the garment’s ______ before I start cutting.”
Show Answer
Possible completion: “I will always check the fabric’s grain and care needs and the garment’s purpose and measurements before I start cutting.”
✅ Check Yourself
Answer the questions below. Then open the answer keys to see how well you understood the lesson.
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(Multiple Choice) Which statement best describes a notion?
a. A type of woven fabric
b. A basic garment silhouette
c. A small item used in sewing garments
d. A machine used for cutting fabricShow Answer
Correct answer: c. A small item used in sewing garments. -
(Multiple Choice) Which fabric construction usually produces stretchier material?
a. Woven
b. Knit
c. Nonwoven
d. FeltShow Answer
Correct answer: b. Knit. -
(True/False) The selvage is the raw edge of fabric that frays easily.
Show Answer
False. The selvage is the finished, firmly woven edge that resists fraying. -
(True/False) Seam allowance allows the dressmaker to sew and adjust the garment without cutting into the actual body measurement.
Show Answer
True. Seam allowance gives extra fabric for stitching and alterations. -
(Short Answer) Give one reason why understanding fiber type is important when choosing fabric for a garment.
Show Answer
Different fibers offer different comfort, strength, and care needs; choosing the right one helps the garment perform well for its purpose and climate. -
(Multiple Choice) Which notion would you most likely use to create a waistband that can stretch?
a. Buttons
b. Zipper
c. Interfacing
d. ElasticShow Answer
Correct answer: d. Elastic. -
(Short Answer) What might happen if you cut a dress pattern without following the grainline arrow?
Show Answer
The dress may twist, stretch in the wrong places, or hang unevenly on the body. -
(Short Answer) Name two common seam finishing techniques.
Show Answer
Examples: zigzag stitch along the raw edge, overlock/serger stitch, turned-under hem, or binding with bias tape. -
(Multiple Choice) A care label shows a triangle with an “X” through it. This means:
a. Do not iron
b. Do not bleach
c. Do not tumble dry
d. Do not washShow Answer
Correct answer: b. Do not bleach. -
(True/False) Buttons and zippers are always interchangeable; you can use either one with no effect on garment design.
Show Answer
False. Buttons and zippers create different looks and functions; the choice affects design, comfort, and ease of use. -
(Short Answer) Why might a dressmaker choose a cotton-polyester blend for school uniforms instead of 100% cotton?
Show Answer
Blends often wrinkle less, dry faster, and last longer while still being fairly comfortable. -
(Short Answer) Name one area of a garment where interfacing is commonly used and explain its purpose.
Show Answer
Common areas: collars, cuffs, waistbands, button plackets. Purpose: to give body and strength so these parts keep their shape. -
(Multiple Choice) Which of the following best describes the bias of woven fabric?
a. Along the selvage
b. Across from selvage to selvage
c. Diagonal between lengthwise and crosswise grain
d. At the center fold onlyShow Answer
Correct answer: c. Diagonal between lengthwise and crosswise grain. -
(Short Answer) How can following care labels help protect both the garment and the environment?
Show Answer
Care labels help garments last longer and reduce waste; using recommended temperatures can also save energy and prevent unnecessary replacement. -
(Reflection Check) Which fabric or notion from today’s lesson are you most interested in using for a future project, and why?
Show Answer
Learner answers will vary; look for thoughtful choices that connect properties (soft, durable, stretchy, decorative) with project ideas.
🚀 Go Further (optional)
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Fabric Swatch Album – Collect small pieces of leftover fabric (or draw and color them) and create an album with labels for fiber type, weave/knit, and best garment use.
Show Answer
Teacher guidance: Encourage learners to organize by category (for example, uniform fabrics, casual fabrics, formal fabrics) and to update the album as they encounter new materials. -
Notions Hunt – Visit a nearby store (with permission) or look around at home to list all the notions you can find.
Show Answer
Teacher guidance: Ask learners to note where each notion is located in a garment, such as zippers in skirts, buttons on shirts, or elastic in waistbands. -
Care Label Survey – Check care labels from five different garments at home and record common instructions.
Show Answer
Teacher guidance: Use the data to discuss which washing and drying methods are most frequent and how they fit local water and electricity situations. -
Seam Sample Strip – In the sewing lab, practice sewing several short seam samples on scrap fabric, using different seam finishes.
Show Answer
Teacher guidance: Label each sample (plain seam with zigzag, French seam, bias-bound edge, etc.) and mount them on paper for future reference. -
Mini Project Plan – Choose a simple project (for example, pillowcase, tote bag, or half apron) and make a planning sheet listing required fabric, notions, estimated seam allowance, and care needs.
Show Answer
Teacher guidance: Use the planning sheets to prepare for future hands-on sewing, showing the links between theory and practical work.
🔗 My Reflection
Notebook prompt:
Imagine you are planning your first simple garment project for a younger sibling or cousin. Describe what garment you would make, which fabric you would choose, and which notions you would need. Then explain how your choices show care for that person’s comfort, daily activities, and the way the garment will be washed and used.

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