TLE8 FCSQ3W6D3: From Pajama to Shorts: Modifying and Laying Out the Pattern

Today you will transform your pajama bottom pattern into a neat pair of shorts and learn how to place each pattern piece correctly on fabric. You will explore how length adjustments, hemlines, and design details change the style while still respecting body measurements, ease, and seam allowance. You will also practice planning pattern layout to follow the grainline, save fabric, and avoid common cutting mistakes. As you mark, arrange, and “dry run” your layout on paper, you will think like a careful dressmaker preparing for the real cutting stage.

• Subject: TLE — Garments / Dressmaking
• Grade: 8 (KS3)
• Day: 3 of 4

🎯 Learning Goals

By the end of the lesson, you will be able to:

1. Modify a full-length pajama bottom pattern into a shorts pattern by adjusting length, hemlines, and allowances while keeping correct fit.
2. Explain and follow basic rules for pattern layout on fabric, including grainline direction, placing on fold, and saving fabric.
3. Prepare a simple cutting plan for shorts that shows safe, accurate placement of front, back, and waistband or casing pieces.

🧩 Key Ideas & Terms

• Shorts length – The desired distance from the waistline down to the finished hem of the shorts.
• Hemline – The bottom edge of a garment where the fabric is folded and stitched.
• Hem allowance – Extra fabric added at the bottom of the pattern to allow for folding and stitching the hem.
• Pattern adjustment – Any change made to a pattern, such as shortening, lengthening, or widening, to achieve a new style or better fit.
• Pattern layout – The arrangement of pattern pieces on fabric before cutting, following rules about grainline, fold, and space saving.
• Fold layout – A layout where the fabric is folded and some pattern pieces are placed on the fold to create symmetrical parts.
• Single layout – A layout using a single layer of fabric, often for one-way prints or for more precise matching.
• Nap / One-way design – A fabric whose print or pile has a direction; all pattern pieces must be placed the same way up.
• Seam line – The line along which two pieces of fabric are stitched together.
• Cutting line – The outermost line of the pattern where the fabric will be cut, including seam and hem allowances.
• Marker – A plan or drawing that shows the exact placement of pattern pieces on fabric width and length.
• Fabric width – The distance from one selvage to the other, important when planning how many pieces fit side by side.

🔄 Quick Recall / Prior Knowledge

Review your pajama pattern from Day 2 and connect it to today's goal of creating shorts.

1. Which measurements did you use to decide the length of your pajama bottom?
   Show Answer

   Common answers: full length from waist to ankle, outseam length, or a chosen length such as mid-calf. These will now guide how much to shorten for shorts.
2. Where on your pattern did you add garter allowance and hem allowance?
   Show Answer

   Garter allowance was added above the waistline for the casing; hem allowance was added at the bottom of the leg, below the original length marking.
3. What does the grainline arrow on your pattern indicate?
   Show Answer

   It shows the direction that should run parallel to the lengthwise grain or selvage of the fabric so the garment hangs correctly.
4. Name one safety rule you must remember when preparing to cut fabric.
   Show Answer

   Examples: keep scissors closed when not in use, do not cut near someone else’s hands, clear pins and clutter away from the cutting path, or never place fabric on the floor for cutting.

📖 Explore the Lesson

Checkpoint 1 – From Long Pajama to Shorts: Deciding the New Length

Mini-goal: Decide an appropriate shorts length and locate it correctly on the existing pajama pattern.

A big advantage of having a pajama pattern is that you do not need to start from zero when creating shorts. The main measurements for waist, hip, and crotch depth are already correct. To change the style, you will focus on the lower part of the leg. First, think about how long you want the shorts to be. Some people prefer just above the knee, others at mid-thigh, and others slightly below the knee for more coverage. Comfort, modesty, and school or home rules should all be considered when choosing the length.

After deciding the finished length, you must add hem allowance. For example, if you want the shorts to end 8 centimeters above the original pajama hem, you mark that point on both the front and back patterns. From this new hemline, you then add extra fabric for folding, often 3 to 4 centimeters, depending on whether you will fold once or twice. It is important that the front and back pieces have the same finished length and the same hem allowance so that the side seams match.

When shortening a pattern, avoid simply cutting off the extra paper quickly. Instead, draw a new horizontal line at the desired finished length, check that it is at right angles to the grainline or side seam, and then add a separate line below it for the hem allowance. Some teachers prefer to fold the extra pattern paper upward instead of cutting it off. This way, you can unfold it again later if you want to go back to full-length pajamas.

Real-life tie-in: Clothing shops often sell shorts that are the same style as their pajama pants, just shorter. By learning how to shorten patterns correctly, you gain the skill to adjust ready-made patterns or even rescue too-long garments by turning them into comfortable shorts.

Mini-summary: To turn pajamas into shorts, you decide the new finished length, mark it on both front and back patterns at right angles to the grain, then add equal hem allowance to create a neat fold.

1. Why should the new shorts hemline be at a right angle to the grainline or side seam?
   Show Answer

   So the hem sits level and even around the leg; a slanted hem would look crooked and may twist when worn.
2. What is one advantage of folding up extra pattern paper instead of cutting it off?
   Show Answer

   You can unfold it later to return to a longer style, such as full-length pajamas, without drafting a new pattern.
3. Why should front and back shorts patterns have exactly the same finished length and hem allowance?
   Show Answer

   So the side seams and inseams match when sewn, giving a balanced, professional-looking garment.

Checkpoint 2 – Shaping the Shorts Hem and Side Seams

Mini-goal: Adjust the lower leg shape so the shorts look balanced, comfortable, and stylish.

Shorts do not always have the same width at the hem as a pajama leg. Some shorts are straight, others are slightly flared, and some are narrowed for a closer fit. When you shorten the pattern, it is a good time to decide on the hem width. Starting from the new hemline, you may keep the side seam straight down from the hip if you want loose, relaxed shorts. If you prefer a slightly tapered shape, you can move the hem point inward by a small amount on both the front and back patterns, then re-draw the side seam with a gentle curve to connect this point smoothly to the hip.

Whatever adjustment you make on the front must be matched on the back so that the seams still join correctly. Use your ruler or French curve to keep the lines smooth, avoiding sharp corners. Remember that shorts used for sleeping or home wear usually have a looser hem for comfort and air flow. Shorts meant for physical activities may also need enough width to allow bending, stretching, and running without strain on the seams.

At the inseam (inner leg seam), you may also adjust the shape slightly. Many patterns use a small curve at the last few centimeters near the crotch and a straighter line near the hem. If you narrow the hem, follow the same amount on the inseam so the hem remains level. Take your time checking that the front and back inseams have the same length after your adjustments. When you are satisfied, darken your new cutting lines and erase the old ones to avoid confusion.

Real-life tie-in: You have probably seen shorts in stores that feel tight at the hem when you sit or climb stairs. This often happens when the hem width is narrowed too much without considering movement. As a young designer, you can avoid this mistake by planning width with both style and comfort in mind.

Mini-summary: Shorts hem and side seams can be straight, tapered, or slightly flared, but front and back must match. Smooth, well-checked lines give a comfortable, attractive shape.

1. Why should you avoid making very sharp corners where the side seam meets the hem?
   Show Answer

   Sharp corners can create awkward points in the fabric and are harder to sew neatly; a smooth curve or angle looks better and feels more comfortable.
2. What might happen if you narrow the hem on the front pattern but forget to narrow it on the back?
   Show Answer

   The side seams will not match when sewn, causing twisting, puckers, or extra fabric at the back or front.
3. How can you test on paper whether your hem width is reasonable for movement?
   Show Answer

   You can imagine the leg inside the shorts, compare the hem width to the thigh measurement plus ease, or wrap a tape measure to the planned width around your own leg to feel if it is comfortable.

Checkpoint 3 – Understanding Basic Pattern Layout Rules

Mini-goal: Learn the main rules that guide how shorts patterns are placed on fabric before cutting.

Once your shorts pattern is ready, the next step is deciding how to place the pieces on fabric. Good pattern layout is like solving a puzzle: you want all pieces to fit within the fabric while following certain rules. The first rule is about the grainline. Most pieces must be placed so that the grainline arrow is parallel to the fabric selvage. This keeps the shorts hanging straight and prevents twisting. If the pattern says “place on fold,” the grainline is automatically placed on the fold edge of the fabric.

The second rule concerns the fold or layers of fabric. For simple shorts, it is common to fold the fabric lengthwise so that two layers lie together with the selvages touching or a little apart. You can then place patterns for “cut 2” pieces on top, and when you cut, you get mirrored left and right pieces. If a pattern piece is labeled “place on fold,” you position one edge exactly along the fold so that when cut and unfolded, it becomes a symmetrical piece such as a front center panel.

The third rule deals with one-way prints or nap, such as fabric with characters that must stand upright. In such cases, all pattern pieces must be placed in the same direction. Even if another layout could save fabric, you should not turn one piece upside down because the design would look wrong. Learning to see fabric direction is an important professional habit; it respects the design and prevents disappointing results when the shorts are sewn.

Real-life tie-in: Think of uniforms or shorts with school logos. If one leg has the logo upside down because the pattern was placed incorrectly, the garment will look unprofessional. Good layout protects the reputation of the dressmaker and the school.

Mini-summary: Pattern layout must respect grainline direction, folds, and any one-way designs. Following these rules helps shorts hang properly and keeps printed designs facing the right way.

1. Why should the grainline on most pattern pieces be parallel to the selvage?
   Show Answer

   Because the lengthwise grain is strongest and stretches least; aligning pieces with it makes the garment hang straight and wear well.
2. What does “place on fold” mean on a pattern?
   Show Answer

   It means that one edge of the pattern should be placed exactly along the folded edge of the fabric so that when cut and opened, it forms one wide, symmetrical piece.
3. Why can turning one pattern piece upside down be a problem on printed fabric with letters or characters?
   Show Answer

   The print will appear upside down or in a different direction compared to other pieces, making the shorts look wrong or messy.

Checkpoint 4 – Planning a Fabric-Saving Layout for Shorts

Mini-goal: Arrange shorts pattern pieces on a pretend fabric width to use material wisely.

Fabric is valuable, so dressmakers try to arrange pattern pieces in a way that uses the least amount while still following layout rules. Imagine you have fabric with a certain width, such as 90 or 115 centimeters. Your task is to fit the front and back shorts pattern, plus any waistband or pocket pieces, within that width and along the length. On your notebook or on scrap paper, you can draw a rectangle to represent the fabric and place small paper shapes copied from your pattern pieces to act out the layout.

Begin by placing the biggest pieces first, usually the front and back shorts. Align their grainlines with the length of the fabric. If the fabric is folded, place them so that you will cut pairs. Try sliding them closer together at the hip or hem, but do not let the cutting lines actually touch; leave a small gap for cutting. Next, place smaller pieces like pockets or waistband strips in the spaces between or beside the big pieces. Always keep grainline in mind. Some small pieces, such as pocket facings, may be allowed to go crosswise if the fabric and teacher's instructions permit, but many pieces still need the same direction.

As you experiment, you may discover that a slightly different fold (such as bringing selvage to center instead of together) can save length. You can sketch or photograph the best arrangement to remember it later. Being able to quickly plan layouts is a practical skill: it saves fabric, reduces cost, and shows respect for resources and the environment by minimizing waste.

Real-life tie-in: In factories, specialists create “markers” to show exactly how hundreds of garment pieces will be cut from large rolls of fabric. Their work can save many meters of fabric and thousands of pesos, proving that planning layouts is a serious job.

Mini-summary: A good layout starts with the largest pieces, keeps grainlines correct, fits smaller pieces into leftover spaces, and looks for ways to save fabric without breaking the rules.

1. Why should you place the largest pattern pieces on the fabric first?
   Show Answer

   Because they require the most space and have the strictest grainline needs; once they are correctly placed, smaller pieces can fit around them more easily.
2. What is one way to check whether you are saving fabric in your layout plan?
   Show Answer

   Compare different sketch layouts and see which uses the least fabric length while still allowing safe cutting gaps and correct grainlines.
3. How does saving fabric also benefit the environment?
   Show Answer

   Using less fabric reduces textile waste and the resources needed to produce it, supporting more sustainable garment production.

Checkpoint 5 – Marking, Pinning, and Preparing to Cut

Mini-goal: Practice safe, accurate marking and pinning techniques to prepare the shorts layout for cutting.

After you choose a layout, you are ready to place real pattern pieces on the actual fabric. Spread the fabric smoothly on the table, right sides together if a double layer is used, and make sure there are no wrinkles. Check that the fold is straight by measuring from the fold to the selvage at several points. Then position the pattern pieces according to your plan. Use a measuring tape or ruler to ensure each grainline arrow is the same distance from the selvage along its length; this confirms the pattern is truly parallel to the grain.

Once satisfied, pin the patterns carefully. Place pins within the seam allowance area, not too close to the cutting line, so that small pin holes will not show on the finished shorts. Pins should be smooth and not rusty. Point their sharp ends away from where scissors will pass to reduce the risk of injury. If your teacher allows, you may also use pattern weights or small objects to hold patterns flat temporarily while you adjust them.

Next, use tailor’s chalk or a fabric-safe marker to trace cutting lines, notches, and important marks such as the center front, center back, and pocket position. Make sure to transfer notches from both front and back pieces so they will match when sewing. Do not rush this stage; mistakes in marking are hard to fix once the fabric is cut. Before cutting, take one final look to confirm that pieces do not fall off the fabric edge and that seam and hem allowances are present. When everything is correct, you are ready for the next day's lesson: careful cutting and sewing preparation.

Real-life tie-in: Experienced dressmakers often say, “Measure twice, cut once.” This wise habit reminds us that time spent checking layout and markings is much shorter than the time needed to repair poorly cut fabric.

Mini-summary: Proper marking and pinning secure your layout, protect fabric, and guide accurate cutting. Slow, careful preparation now prevents waste and poor fit later.

1. Why should pins be placed within the seam allowance rather than on the cutting line?
   Show Answer

   So that small pin holes will end up inside the seam and will not appear on the visible parts of the shorts.
2. How can you check if the grainline on a pattern piece is truly parallel to the selvage?
   Show Answer

   Measure the distance from each end of the grainline arrow to the selvage; if the distances are equal, the grainline is parallel.
3. Why is it important to transfer all notches and markings before cutting?
   Show Answer

   They guide you in matching seams and placing pockets or other features; without them, sewing becomes confusing and accuracy is lost.

💡 Example in Action

1. Example 1 – Shortening the Pajama Pattern
   A pajama pattern has a full length of 90 cm from waist to hem. The learner wants shorts that end 10 cm above the knee, at 55 cm from the waist. She chooses a 4 cm hem allowance. Where should she draw the new cutting line for the shorts hem?
   Show Answer

   She should draw the finished hemline at 55 cm from the waist and then add 4 cm below it for hem allowance, so the cutting line is at 59 cm from the waist.
2. Example 2 – Adjusting Hem Width
   At the new hemline, the pajama pattern measures 30 cm across. The learner decides to make the shorts slightly narrower, removing 2 cm total from the hem width. How much should she remove from each side seam?
   Show Answer

   She should remove 1 cm at each side seam (front and back patterns must be adjusted equally) to reduce the hem width from 30 cm to 28 cm.
3. Example 3 – Grainline Check
   A pattern’s grainline arrow is 10 cm from the selvage at the top of the arrow and 11 cm from the selvage at the bottom. What should the learner do before pinning?
   Show Answer

   She should pivot or slide the pattern until both ends of the grainline arrow are the same distance from the selvage, then recheck and only pin when the distances match.
4. Example 4 – Dealing with One-way Fabric
   The fabric has cartoon figures that should stand upright. In her first layout, the learner accidentally places the back pattern upside down to save space. What will happen if she cuts it like this?
   Show Answer

   The cartoons on the back of the shorts will appear upside down compared to the front, making the garment look incorrect and unprofessional.
5. Example 5 – Marking Notches Safely
   After pinning the pattern, the learner wants to mark notches at the side seam. Her teacher forbids cutting deep triangles into the fabric edge. What alternative method can she use?
   Show Answer

   She can mark the notch positions with small chalk marks or very shallow clips, or cut small “T-shaped” marks just inside the seam allowance instead of deep cuts into the fabric edge.

📝 Try It Out

Work in your notebook and on pattern paper. Then compare your work with the suggested answers.

1. Using your pajama pattern from Day 2, decide a finished shorts length for yourself and write the measurement in centimeters. Explain briefly why you chose that length.
   Show Answer

   Answers vary. Look for a clear measurement from waist to desired hem plus reasons such as comfort, modesty, school rules, or suitability for activities.
2. On your pattern, draw the new shorts hemline and hem allowance. Ask a partner to check whether front and back pieces have the same finished length.
   Show Answer

   Teacher checks for equal distances from waist to hem on both pieces and consistent hem allowance width.
3. Sketch three possible short styles in your notebook: straight hem, slightly tapered, and slightly flared. Label how the side seam would look in each.
   Show Answer

   Look for variations in side seam shapes—vertical for straight, angled inwards for tapered, and angled outwards for flared—with clear labels.
4. Draw a small “fabric rectangle” in your notebook to represent folded fabric. Cut small paper pieces that mimic your front and back shorts patterns and experiment with different layouts.
   Show Answer

   Students should try more than one arrangement and choose one that keeps grainlines correct and uses less fabric length.
5. Write a short step-by-step list (at least five steps) describing how to check grainline before pinning a pattern to fabric.
   Show Answer

   Sample steps: spread fabric; locate selvage; position pattern; measure from each end of grainline to selvage; adjust until equal; then pin.
6. Use colored pencils to mark on your layout drawing where you will place pins and where you will mark notches or important points.
   Show Answer

   Look for pins drawn mostly within seam allowance and notch symbols in matching positions on front and back seams.
7. List three ways you can reduce fabric waste when planning shorts layouts.
   Show Answer

   Possible ideas: placing pieces close together but not touching, using leftover spaces for small pieces, choosing the best fold direction, or planning to use larger scraps for pockets or other projects.
8. Describe one situation where ignoring nap or one-way design could embarrass the wearer of the shorts.
   Show Answer

   Example: cartoon characters, words, or school logos ending up upside down on one leg, which looks funny or disrespectful during events or photos.
9. In a sentence or two, explain why “measure twice, cut once” is a good rule for pattern layout and cutting.
   Show Answer

   Answers should show that double-checking saves fabric, prevents mistakes, and avoids the need to recut or repair garments.
10. Compose a short reminder message you could post near the cutting table about safety and neatness while laying out shorts patterns.
    Show Answer

    Examples: “Keep scissors closed,” “No running near cutting table,” “Pick up pins immediately,” “Check grainline before cutting.”

✅ Check Yourself

Answer each item, then reveal the answers to check your understanding.

1. (Multiple Choice) What is the first thing you should decide when turning a pajama pattern into shorts?
   a. The pocket shape
   b. The new shorts length
   c. The color of the fabric
   d. The type of stitch to use
   Show Answer

   Correct answer: b. The new shorts length.
2. (Multiple Choice) If you add 4 cm hem allowance to the shorts, what does this extra fabric provide?
   a. Space for garter
   b. Decoration for pockets
   c. Fabric to fold and stitch the hem
   d. Extra ease at the hip
   Show Answer

   Correct answer: c. Fabric to fold and stitch the hem.
3. (True/False) Front and back shorts pieces can have different finished lengths as long as the waist measurements are the same.
   Show Answer

   False. The finished lengths must match so the side seams and inseams meet correctly.
4. (True/False) When fabric has a one-way design, all pattern pieces must point in the same direction.
   Show Answer

   True. This keeps the design upright and consistent around the garment.
5. (Short Answer) Why do we place the largest pattern pieces on the fabric first when planning layout?
   Show Answer

   Because they take up the most space and must follow grainline rules; once they are correctly placed, smaller pieces can be fitted around them.
6. (Multiple Choice) The grainline arrow on a pattern piece should be:
   a. Diagonal to the selvage
   b. Parallel to the selvage
   c. Perpendicular to the selvage
   d. Pointing toward the corner
   Show Answer

   Correct answer: b. Parallel to the selvage.
7. (Short Answer) What could happen if pattern pieces are placed off-grain (not parallel to the selvage)?
   Show Answer

   The shorts may twist, hang crooked, or stretch strangely, causing discomfort and poor appearance.
8. (Short Answer) Why is it safer to place pins within the seam allowance?
   Show Answer

   Pin holes will be hidden inside the seam, and scissors are less likely to hit the metal pins while cutting.
9. (Multiple Choice) Which of the following is not a good way to save fabric in layout?
   a. Placing pieces close together
   b. Turning one piece upside down on one-way print fabric
   c. Filling gaps with small pieces
   d. Planning the fold direction to fit pieces well
   Show Answer

   Correct answer: b. Turning one piece upside down on one-way print fabric.
10. (True/False) It is acceptable to start cutting fabric even if you have not yet transferred notches and key markings.
    Show Answer

    False. Cutting without markings makes sewing confusing and can cause mismatched seams.
11. (Short Answer) What should you do before cutting if you notice that one pattern piece is slightly off the fabric edge?
    Show Answer

    You should stop, reposition the pattern pieces or adjust the layout so all cutting lines lie fully on the fabric before you begin cutting.
12. (Multiple Choice) Which saying reminds us to double-check layout and markings before cutting?
    a. “Cut first, think later.”
    b. “Measure twice, cut once.”
    c. “Fold everything three times.”
    d. “Use all the fabric, no matter what.”
    Show Answer

    Correct answer: b. “Measure twice, cut once.”.
13. (Short Answer) How can good layout and cutting habits show that you respect resources and the environment?
    Show Answer

    They reduce fabric waste, save money, and prevent unnecessary disposal of textile scraps, supporting more sustainable use of materials.
14. (Short Answer) Give one personal safety rule you will follow whenever you are working at the cutting table.
    Show Answer

    Answers vary; examples include keeping fingers away from scissor blades, not playing with pins, wearing closed shoes, or keeping the area free of clutter.
15. (Reflection Check) Which step in modifying or laying out shorts patterns do you still find difficult, and what will you do to improve?
    Show Answer

    Answers vary. Encourage learners to mention a specific step and plan, such as practicing sketches, asking for a demonstration, or reviewing notes.

🚀 Go Further (optional)

1. Shorts Style Gallery – Look at magazines, online photos, or classmates’ shorts and sketch at least three different hem shapes or lengths.
   Show Answer

   Teacher guidance: Ask learners to identify which designs are loose, tapered, or flared, and discuss which are best for school, sports, or home wear.
2. Fabric Scrap Layout – Use scrap paper pieces to simulate creative layouts on a “fabric” sheet drawn in your notebook.
   Show Answer

   Teacher guidance: Encourage learners to experiment with different folds and placements and to label which layout uses the least “fabric length.”
3. Eco-Friendly Cutting Talk – Interview an adult who sews or works in a shop about how they handle fabric scraps.
   Show Answer

   Teacher guidance: Use answers to start a discussion on reusing scraps for small items like headbands, pot holders, or patchwork projects.
4. Layout Poster – Create a mini poster showing the three main layout rules: follow grainline, respect one-way designs, and save fabric.
   Show Answer

   Teacher guidance: Display posters near the TLE cutting tables as visual reminders of good practice.
5. Math with Fabric Width – Using sample fabric widths, calculate how many pairs of shorts you could theoretically cut from a certain length.
   Show Answer

   Teacher guidance: Give learners simple numbers (for example, fabric width 90 cm, shorts pattern width 40 cm) and guide them in estimating how many pieces fit, linking math skills to real cutting decisions.

🔗 My Reflection

Notebook prompt:

Imagine that you are preparing to cut real fabric for your own pair of shorts. Which two layout or cutting rules will you pay attention to the most, and why? In a short paragraph, explain how following these rules will help you produce shorts that are comfortable, neat, and respectful of safety and resources.

Show Answer

Teacher note: Look for connections between grainline, one-way designs, fabric saving, and safety. Encourage learners to relate rules to their values such as carefulness, respect for materials, and concern for the wearer.

Lesson Tools

• ⬆ Back to Top / Intro
• 🎯 Learning Goals
• 🧩 Key Ideas & Terms
• 🔄 Quick Recall
• 📖 Explore the Lesson
• 💡 Example in Action
• 📝 Try It Out
• ✅ Check Yourself
• 🚀 Go Further
• 🔗 My Reflection